diff --git a/_posts/2015-03-05-the-dogs-assure-me.md b/_posts/2015-03-05-the-dogs-assure-me.md new file mode 100644 index 0000000..a962a39 --- /dev/null +++ b/_posts/2015-03-05-the-dogs-assure-me.md @@ -0,0 +1,40 @@ +--- +categories: +- Poem +- Rated G +counts: + characters_real: 316 + characters_total: 398 + file: _posts/2015-03-05-the-dogs-assure-me.md + paragraphs: 4 + type: jekyll + words: 75 +date: 2015-03-06 +layout: post +tags: +- Animals +- Poetry +title: The Dogs Assure Me +--- + +
+
+Leopold Bros. absinthe is an interesting one. [The Leopold Bros. Distillery](http://www.leopoldbros.com/) first came to my attention through their blackberry flavored whiskey, an unoaked whiskey flavored with blackberry syrup. It's a delightful combination that wound up in a drink at my local bar, Elliot's. I ran to the store to pick some up after learning about the ingredients of the drink, and right there next to it on the shelf was the Leopold Bros. absinthe.
+
+I hadn't been drinking absinthe in quite a while -- I'd run out of my initial order of french absinthes, and didn't really want to pick up any more for the outrageous international shipping costs. I grabbed a bottle of this on a whim and took it home.
+
+I was greeted by a very strange absinthe. It turns out that Leopold Bros. had been more experimental with their first batches, and it wasn't until batch 15 that they settled on their current formula. In fact, the batches differ so much, that they are rated as separate products in the Wormwood Society reviews: [batches 1-14](http://www.wormwoodsociety.org/index.php/component/content/article/20-absinthe-brand-reviews/traditional-absinthe/577-leopold-brothers-absinthe-verte-batches-1-14) and [batches 15+](http://www.wormwoodsociety.org/index.php/component/content/article/20-absinthe-brand-reviews/traditional-absinthe/439-leopold-brothers-absinthe-verte-batches-15).
+
+I'm reviewing batch 89 here, but it's worth noting some of the characteristics of that first bottle, from batch 4. The color was more of a drab color, closer to the color that shows up in the St. George absinthe mentioned later. The taste was intriguing. It lead with anise and fennel, but there was a definite note of oregano that I found rather enjoyable. It was a good drink, though perhaps not a very accurate absinthe.
+
+On to this batch, though!
+
+The color of this batch is fairer, cleaner looking than the olive of the earlier batches. As far as absinthes go, it is still on the lighter side and little yellow. It's reminiscent of dried herbs, rather than fresh, though this is hardly a fault. I'll explain more about where the color in verte absinthes comes from in a bit.
+
+Straight, the spirit smells primarily of fennel (a sort of green, licorice scent) and anise (a more pure anise scent), but that is soon overwhelmed with hot alcohol. The grape spirit base of this drink is evident, in a calming warmth -- the cuts on the base spirit are fine, with no odd notes of solvents or fusel oils. The emptied nosing glass, allowed to evaporate for a minute or so, starts to show more complexity, with fresh hyssop and perhaps angelica showing through.
+
+One doesn't drink absinthe straight, however. This one clocks in at 68% alcohol by volume (174 proof), which would make for quite the intense drink. Instead, one dilutes the alcohol with water, one part absinthe to anywhere from three to five parts water. In the process, the absinthe louches.
+
+Some of the herbs used in production of absinthe contain alcohol soluble compounds which have one hydrophobic (water-hating) end and one hydrophilic (water-loving) end which may be a separate surfactant. When water is added, these compounds clump together with their hydrophobic ends facing in and their hydrophilic ends facing outward, leading to the cloudiness that one sees in the final drink. The same can be seen with ouzo and raki. These terpenes come primarily from anise and star anise, as well as from fennel and coriander, and form an emulsion with the water.
+
+The Leopold Bros. absinthe louches quick and thick at 3:1 water to absinthe, despite it's pale color. And, despite the yellow tinge to the undiluted absinthe, the louche is creamy and green, like the center of an Andes mint. It's a very fresh color, to counter the dried-herb appearance.
+
+Although it's not to my tastes, absinthe is often drunk with sugar. This is done by placing a slotted absinthe spoon across the opening of the glass, placing a sugar cube on the spoon, and slowly dripping water over the sugar cube to dissolve it into the drink. This is done because sugar is not readily soluble in alcohol of this strength.
+
+Without sugar, the absinthe is bracing, refreshing, and herbal. At the fore is a sweet anise note that fades into delightful herbal flavors, leading with hyssop, then fading to a wonderful bitter wormwood. The sweetness of the anise soon coats the mouth and fades into a fresher fennel taste. After swallowing, the hyssop herbal flavors and the wormwood bitterness combine to leave your mouth feeling cool, and the body refreshed.
+
+When prepared with sugar, the absinthe differs in that the fresh, astringent hyssop flavor turns almost to mintiness, bringing that cooling feeling to the tongue and lips sooner than without sugar. Additionally, the bitterness of the wormwood is covered up as the sugar blends with the anise and fennel to make for a more candy-like experience, rather like those sugar-coated fennel seeds one sees at Indian restaurants, though less earthy than that implies.
+
+Overland Distillery is another local company, much closer to me than Leopold Bros. As a company, they focus solely on absinthe, and aim to be as green as possible. They source the herbs that they use for production of their absinthe from local organic farms, and proudly explain their process on their [site](http://www.overlanddistillery.com/home/4577963004).
+
+The color of the straight spirit is a greenish yellow, almost tan. They defend the color of the product on their website as being totally natural (as any good absinthe should be). It's not unpleasant, to be sure, but hardly the peridot one might be expecting when pouring from the dark bottle.
+
+When smelled straight, one is a little surprised by the relative lack of anise. The nose is greeted with a vaguely savory smell as oregano and coriander dominate, along with plenty of angelica and wormwood. There is a very faint odor of what I thought was heads at first -- heads are the first part of the distillation that contains a greater concentration of methanol and other solvents -- but over time that relaxes away. I almost wonder if this was made with a grain alcohol rather than a grape alcohol. As the empty nosing glass begins to evaporate, one can smell the anise more clearly. It's still lighter than expected, but pleasant all the same.
+
+The downplayed anise and fennel is evident in the very mild louche, even at the relatively "strong" ratio of 3:1. When water begins to drip into the absinthe, one can see the mixtures swirling rather like heat waves, as one might with any absinthe, but this never develops into the opalescence that I expect from more anise-heavy absinthes. The faint louche picks up on the green notes from the straight spirit a little at least, and the color is appealing, if light, but the louche is too light for my tastes.
+
+When water is added and the absinthe smelled, I was struck almost immediately by the same savory notes from the straight spirit, joined by a smell of chlorine, as though I'd poolside. This was so confusing that I dumped the first glass of absinthe out, rewashed my glass, and tried again. The unpleasant odor was there again, making me mark that as a point against this absinthe.
+
+The flavor is as light as the color and the nose. One is struck immediately with hot alcohol fighting against cooling anise. The fennel becomes evident in the mid, with a bit of astringency from the more bitter herbs. The anise and wormwood linger on the tail, along with an unpleasant whiff of chlorine from the back of the throat. The body of the absinthe was similarly light, the mouthfeel coming across more like a vodka or gin than the fullness of many other absinthes.
+
+I tried once more with sugar, and was greeted by a more pleasant mouthfeel, much thicker, but more of the same in terms of flavors; I wasn't able to finish the sweetened glass.
+
+This was an intriguing absinthe. It has flaws keeping it from being a wonderful drink on its own -- the note of chlorine being prime among them -- but I got the impression that this absinthe would work well when incorporated into a cocktail, such as the Absinthe cocktail or Sazerac listed below.
+
+Not all absinthes are green, not by a long shot. I'll go into some more details about that later, green absinthes are simply the most popular. Needless to say, here is the only blanche absinthe on the list that I'm tasting.
+
+Vilya Spirits, which used to be named Ridge Distillery, is a distillery in Montana that focuses on herbal liquors and liqueurs, producing two absinthes, a gin, and a huckleberry liqueur, of which I've only tasted the absinthes. I sought them about because they are some of the highest rated American absinthes on the Wormwood Society's reviews pages, and for good reason.
+
+The color of the undiluted spirit is bright and clear, a little finer than water or even vodka. It smells delightfully of anise cookies, actually, as though someone were taking care in baking absinthe into a pastry. There's a warmth, a sweetness that comes across with a little touch of vanilla. As the nosing glass dries, the scent shifts over into a classic wormwood, fennel, and anise mix with a hint of coriander and angelica, really complex and delightful.
+
+The louche is quick and thick. It starts out with a hint of blue as it begins to opalesce, then moves past opaline and into milky, cottony white, with just a hint of fading around the meniscus near the edges of the glass. Watching the louche happen as the water drips into the glass is stunning.
+
+The baked goods come through a little in the diluted spirit as well, though in all, it's still definitely an absinthe. There's plenty of anise and a bit of hyssop up front, fading to fennel and wormwood in the mid, then trailing off to cool anise and a touch of vanilla. The mouthfeel is just about perfect on this, too, not too full, but certainly not flat. It leaves the mouth just a touch dry, despite the sensation that the tongue and cheeks are coated in clean, licorice-y goodness, with a pleasant touch of numbing.
+
+When sugar is added, the cookie sense increases even further. The added sugar batters down the hyssop, leaving primarily anise and fennel, with just a touch of vanilla. I'm unsure of where that vanilla actually comes from, perhaps the angelica or maybe an addition of something else. Genepy, perhaps? The resulting drink is almost perfect for dessert: it's not quite a candy, not quite a cookie, but the perfect end to a meal all the same. Even fifteen minutes after drinking, I can still feel the slight coating of the mouth from the anise and the vague numbing effect, which is pleasant and comfortable.
+
+When I saw that [St. George](http://www.stgeorgespirits.com/) was making an absinthe, I had to jump on it.
+
+I was lucky enough to visit this distillery, famous for being located in an old hangar in Alameda, CA (and thus for making Hangar One vodka there, though that's a different label) with my partner and a few friends. The building is enormous, the tour guides well informed and funny, and all of their spirits delightful. They're notable for their vodka, of course -- for them, I break my "no flavored vodkas" rule; the blueberry and citron are heavenly -- but also for their gin with a focus on terroir and their eau de vie.
+
+The absinthe itself is green, but hued towards olive, which may be in part due to the clear bottle: both Leopold Bros. and St. George absinthes tend closer to yellow, which can be due to being light-struck. Hardly a huge flaw, though.
+
+The smell of the straight spirit is hot alcohol in the lead, followed by anise, fennel, and a surprising honey note, as if someone had blended in some tupelo honey. There's not really any wormwood or any of the fuller herbs present in the nose, but once the glass dries a bit, you can pick up a bit of hyssop.
+
+The absinthe louches right in the middle of the road. It's green and opaline without the olive tinge, neither thick nor thin, neither fast nor slow. It reminds me rather a lot of the Jade absinthes, which leads me to want to call it "typical", though I may be off.
+
+The flavor of the diluted spirit explodes with sweetness, and really doesn't need sugar at all. It leads with honey, then plenty of anise and star anise. That flows into a bit of wormwood and fennel in the mid, followed by more cooling anise. There's a gentle pinch of hyssop in the throat after, and the mouth is left with sweetness. The smell is almost like someone blended honey with absinthe herbs.
+
+Adding sugar just seems to complete the transformation to honey. Although the mouthfeel was fine for the drink without sugar, it gets even fuller with sugar, which may be adding to the sense of honey. In fact, it reminds me of getting licorice-flavored honey sticks, right down to the slight tickle in the throat that eating plain honey can create. That said, it's too sweet for me, with sugar. It's wonderful without!
+
+Alright, I'm going to come clean up front, here. This is my favorite absinthe of the lot (though the St. George comes in a close second).
+
+We already tried the blanche absinthe, and talked about the difference between blanche and verte absinthes. The difference between this absinthe and the blanche is clear from the start. The color is a perfect peridot green, typifying the beautiful absinthes I tried from Jade. It looks spectacular in the nosing glass.
+
+The smell is anise, fennel, and stone fruit to start. Eventually, a bit of the base spirit -- grain spirits in this case -- shows through, with fantastic attention paid to the cuts. This fades to a clean finish with what smells like a bit of coriander and melissa.
+
+The louche is another "typical" one, with medium speed and intensity: it's not as cottony as the blanche, but neither is it thin by any stretch.
+
+When water is added, the smell is relatively light, with bits of anise and angelica. The taste is a perfect balance of bitter and sweet, without any astringency to speak of. This leads with fresher herbs, rather like hyssop (though that isn't listed as an ingredient), coriander, and a judicious amount of anise. It's not punchy at all. The mid is warm wormwood and fennel, with some angelica peeking through, while the tail is a splash of bright, pleasant bitterness. The coating that the sip leaves in your mouth is just as balanced as the drink: complex, rather than one-note anise.
+
+When sugar is added, the wormwood and coriander are mulled almost totally, but not completely gone. The absinthe remains wonderfully complex, though some of the admirable (to me) qualities are lost to the sugar. Even so, this absinthe does well with the addition of sugar, not turning into simple anise candy.
+
+Of all of the absinthes that I tasted for this article, this was the clear winner, far and away. Everything about it screamed "absinthe". The color was spot on, the louche was simply the type for the class, and the flavor started by taking me back to those first sips of French absinthe, and then went so far above and beyond them, perfect with or without sugar. It's my favorite, I'm not ashamed to say, and I can't recommend it highly enough.Geese Level:
+ Unnerving
Expect:
+ Anxiety
Geese Level:
+ Noise-Cancelling Headphones
Expect:
+ auditory aberrations
Geese Level:
+ Eldrich
Expect:
+ red tint to vision; hot flashes
Geese Level:
+ Beyond Comprehension
Expect:
+ confusion; nausea; sweating; racing pulse
Geese Level:
+ Excruciating
Expect:
+ pounding heart; tunnel vision; racing thoughts; black outs;
+blood pouring from ears
Geese Level:
+ Terrifying
Expect:
+ tinnitus; piloerection; shortness of breath; uneven gait
Geese Level:
+ Uncomfortable
Expect:
+ subdermal itching; formication
Geese Level:
+ Birds
Expect:
+ birds
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+var h=d-c.left-c.right,r=d3.select(this);a.utils.initSVG(r);var v=r.selectAll("g.nv-legend").data([b]),w=v.enter().append("g").attr("class","nvd3 nv-legend").append("g"),x=v.select("g");v.attr("transform","translate("+c.left+","+c.top+")");var y,z,A=x.selectAll(".nv-series").data(function(a){return"furious"!=q?a:a.filter(function(a){return o?!0:!a.disengaged})}),B=A.enter().append("g").attr("class","nv-series");switch(q){case"furious":z=23;break;case"classic":z=20}if("classic"==q)B.append("circle").style("stroke-width",2).attr("class","nv-legend-symbol").attr("r",5),y=A.select(".nv-legend-symbol");else if("furious"==q){B.append("rect").style("stroke-width",2).attr("class","nv-legend-symbol").attr("rx",3).attr("ry",3),y=A.select(".nv-legend-symbol"),B.append("g").attr("class","nv-check-box").property("innerHTML",'open: "+b.yAxis.tickFormat()(c.open)+" close: "+b.yAxis.tickFormat()(c.close)+" high "+b.yAxis.tickFormat()(c.high)+" low: "+b.yAxis.tickFormat()(c.low)+"
"}),c.dispatch.on("elementMouseover.tooltip",function(a){var b={key:a.label,color:a.color,series:[]};a.values&&(Object.keys(a.values).forEach(function(c){var d=a.dimensions.filter(function(a){return a.key===c})[0];if(d){var e;e=isNaN(a.values[c])||isNaN(parseFloat(a.values[c]))?p:d.format(a.values[c]),b.series.push({idx:d.currentPosition,key:c,value:e,color:d.color})}}),b.series.sort(function(a,b){return a.idx-b.idx})),e.data(b).hidden(!1)}),c.dispatch.on("elementMouseout.tooltip",function(a){e.hidden(!0)}),c.dispatch.on("elementMousemove.tooltip",function(){e()}),b.dispatch=q,b.parallelCoordinates=c,b.legend=d,b.tooltip=e,b.options=a.utils.optionsFunc.bind(b),b._options=Object.create({},{width:{get:function(){return g},set:function(a){g=a}},height:{get:function(){return h},set:function(a){h=a}},showLegend:{get:function(){return i},set:function(a){i=a}},defaultState:{get:function(){return n},set:function(a){n=a}},dimensionData:{get:function(){return l},set:function(a){l=a}},displayBrush:{get:function(){return m},set:function(a){m=a}},noData:{get:function(){return o},set:function(a){o=a}},nanValue:{get:function(){return p},set:function(a){p=a}},margin:{get:function(){return f},set:function(a){f.top=void 0!==a.top?a.top:f.top,f.right=void 0!==a.right?a.right:f.right,f.bottom=void 0!==a.bottom?a.bottom:f.bottom,f.left=void 0!==a.left?a.left:f.left}},color:{get:function(){return j},set:function(b){j=a.utils.getColor(b),d.color(j),c.color(j)}}}),a.utils.inheritOptions(b,c),a.utils.initOptions(b),b},a.models.pie=function(){"use strict";function b(F){return E.reset(),F.each(function(b){function F(a,b){a.endAngle=isNaN(a.endAngle)?0:a.endAngle,a.startAngle=isNaN(a.startAngle)?0:a.startAngle,p||(a.innerRadius=0);var c=d3.interpolate(this._current,a);return this._current=c(0),function(a){return C[b](c(a))}}var G=d-c.left-c.right,H=e-c.top-c.bottom,I=Math.min(G,H)/2,J=[],K=[];if(i=d3.select(this),0===A.length)for(var L=I-I/5,M=y*I,N=0;N=o){var f=ba(d);$[f]&&(d[1]-=_),$[ba(d)]=!0}return"translate("+d+")"}),X.select(".nv-label text").style("text-anchor",function(a,b){return t?(a.startAngle+a.endAngle)/2 ";return 0!==a.series.length&&(b+=''+a.key+" ',a.series.forEach(function(a){b=b+' "}),b+=""),b+="'+a.key+' '+a.value+"